A magical journey through GemGenève 2025, Part 2.
While the first part of our GemGenève 2025 journey immersed us in the visual splendor of rare stones and masterful craftsmanship, it also opened the door to rich human encounters that added depth, emotion, and narrative to the experience. This second chapter continues along that path—shining a spotlight on the individuals, conversations, and creative forces that truly brought the fair to life.
This section brings together some of the most striking moments we experienced. From Elsa Jin’s symbolic, sculptural creations—which have redefined the place of the brooch in high jewelry and earned iconic status through Adrien Brody’s red carpet appearances at the Oscars and Golden Globes—to Nelly Saunier’s poetic feather artistry, rooted in the French tradition of plumasserie, creativity was at the very heart of the fair.
We visited Fillippo G&G, where Rachel Bresson introduced us to a vibrant selection of high-quality loose stones, and admired the expressive works of Bojem, a Chinese maison blending bold design with a refined sense of color. At Pamir Gems, Jamshed shared his family’s remarkable journey from mining spinels in the Pamir Mountains to becoming respected international suppliers.
A particularly memorable encounter took place at RMC Gems Limited, where we explored a collection of ultra-rare Paraíba tourmalines from Mozambique—stones so scarce and vivid, their presence felt like a true privilege.
Our exploration extended into the world of gemology, with visits to two esteemed laboratories: Gübelin Gem Lab in Lucerne, where we learned about their scientific precision and dedication to education, and GGTL Laboratories Switzerland, renowned for their cutting-edge expertise in gemstone analysis.
One especially meaningful stop was the HEAD – Genève student competition, where fifteen young talents from the Jewellery and Accessory Design programs reimagined the Celtic legend of Tristan and Iseut through the lens of contemporary jewelry. The results were conceptually daring, emotionally resonant, and rich in storytelling—reminding us that the future of the industry lies in the hands of bold, thoughtful emerging designers.
Each booth, each exchange, and each story we discovered reinforced the same truth: in the world of fine gems and high jewelry, it’s not just the brilliance of the stones that captivates—it’s the vision, intellect, and passion behind them.
Elsa Jin Studio
Elsa Jin : The Artist Who Revived the Brooch
During our visit to GemGenève 2025, we stopped by the elegant of Elsa Jin—one of the most visionary artists in contemporary high jewelry. Her artistic presence was palpable through the poetic and meticulously crafted pieces on display.
The “Life Series”: From the Atelier to the Oscars
Among the standout works was the celebrated Life Series, a collection of brooches that reflect themes of vitality, transformation, and spiritual connection. These pieces, known for their emotional symbolism and sculptural beauty, have captured global attention. One in particular made headlines when actor Adrien Brody wore it to the Oscars—described as a personal good luck charm and part of an ongoing collaboration with the artist.
Adrien Brody: A Style Signature in High Jewelry
Brody’s red carpet appearances have become closely associated with Elsa Jin’s artistic brooches. The MOZI brooch, which depicts a spill of traditional Chinese calligraphy ink which he wore at the Oscars was not a one-off; similar designs by Jin also accompanied him at the Met Gala, the Golden Globes, and the Venice Film Festival. His embrace of such bold, meaningful accessories has helped redefine men’s jewelry, positioning the brooch as a central element of modern elegance and self-expression.
Isabelle Huppert, the WOMAN brooch
At the Cannes Film Festival, French actress Isabelle Huppert wore one of the five flowers of the WOMAN brooch, the latest creation by Elsa Jin. This remarkable piece features five chrysanthemums and symbolizes the five decades of a woman’s life. The designer never draws by chance — every creation is deeply inspired. For this brooch, she had a vision while contemplating Gustav Klimt’s 1905 painting The Three Ages of Woman, which depicts childhood, adulthood, and old age through three female figures. The five titanium flowers are all different sizes, from the smallest to the largest. Their chrysanthemum petals gradually open more and more, blooming like a delicate allegory of the passage of time. As mentioned earlier, the actress wore only one of the five flowers that make up this exquisite Haute Joaillerie creation. A few days earlier, Brazilian supermodel Isabeli Fontana had showcased the full version of the brooch, featuring a cascading bouquet of chrysanthemums.
Leading a Global Trend
Elsa Jin is credited with reviving the brooch in the world of haute joaillerie. Once considered a relic of the past, the brooch is now at the forefront of contemporary design thanks to her unique vision. Sculptural, gender-fluid, and rich in storytelling, her creations are influencing stylists, collectors, and designers around the world.
A Quiet Force Redefining Jewelry
Although we didn’t meet her in person, our visit to Elsa Jin’s booth was a powerful experience. Her work speaks volumes—combining technique, emotion, and artistry in a way few can achieve. Elsa Jin has not only redefined the role of the brooch but also reshaped how we understand jewelry itself: not just as ornamentation, but as a reflection of personal narrative and cultural evolution.
Nelly Saunier
The Art of Plumasserie: A Visit to Nelly Saunier’s Stand at GemGenève 2025
Among the many exceptional talents showcased at this year’s GemGenève, one stand in particular drew us into a world of delicate movement, colour, and craftsmanship: that of Nelly Saunier, the celebrated plumassière and visual artist. Her creations blur the lines between high jewelry, textile art, and sculpture—inviting viewers into a poetic dialogue between nature and savoir-faire.
A Meeting with “L’Arabustier”
The centrepiece of her display was the remarkable L’Arabustier, a sculptural piece that embodies Nelly Saunier’s signature blend of fine feather artistry and haute couture sensibility. Created in collaboration with jewellers and inspired by exotic birds, Larabustier seemed to defy gravity—its iridescent plumes shimmering in hues that danced with the light.
The technique behind this piece is rooted in an ancient French métier d’art: plumasserie, the art of working with feathers. But in Nelly Saunier’s hands, this traditional craft becomes a medium of expression, where each feather is meticulously selected, cut, shaped, and placed with the precision of a jeweller setting gemstones.
We were told by Nelly Saunier that the feathers used in L’Arabustier were not taken at random, nor sourced through conventional means. Instead, they were patiently collected over a period of three years, following the natural moulting process of a hybrid macaw. No feathers were plucked or extracted — each one was gathered only after being naturally shed by the bird. This careful process was made possible through the collaboration of a dedicated breeder, who preserved every feather with precision. Once selected, the feathers were cleaned, prepared, and meticulously placed on the branches, one by one, like rare leaves. Through this poetic and ethical approach, L’Arabustier was brought to life — not just as a sculpture, but as a quiet tribute to time, transformation, and the fragile harmony between humans and nature.
The Artist and Her Vision
Nelly Saunier is not only a master artisan—she is a visionary. Her work has been featured in collaborations with maisons such as Chanel, Cartier, and Van Cleef & Arpels, and she has been awarded the prestigious title of Maître d’art by the French Ministry of Culture. Beyond technical excellence, her approach is deeply philosophical: she explores themes of fragility, metamorphosis, and the silent dialogue between the organic and the refined.
Though she was engaged in conversations during our visit, we were warmly welcomed at the stand and had the chance to see l’Arabustier up close—an experience that left a lasting impression. The vibrant colours, the layered textures, and the almost-breathing quality of that piece are not just visually captivating, they are emotionally stirring.
An Enchanted Pause at GemGenève
In a fair dominated by the dazzle of diamonds and the precision of cut gemstones, Nelly Saunier’s creation offered a moment of softness and reverie—a reminder that beauty often lies in the ephemeral and the delicate. Her stand stood as a testament to the power of nature-inspired craftsmanship in contemporary jewelry art.
Filippo G&G SA
A World of Colored Gemstone Excellence
During our visit to GemGenève 2025, we had the pleasure of discovering the world of Filippo G&G SA, a family-owned company known for its exceptional selection of natural colored gemstones. We met with Rachel Bresson, whose warm welcome and deep knowledge of the trade made our exchange both insightful and engaging.
A Family Story Rooted in Geneva
Founded in Geneva, Filippo G&G stands out for its curated inventory of rare stones sourced directly from ethical mines and trusted international suppliers. Their offering spans a kaleidoscope of color — from vivid spinels and tourmalines to elegant sapphires and exquisite rubellites. Every gemstone is carefully chosen for its beauty, origin, and character.
Precision, Traceability & Trust
What truly sets Filippo G&G apart is its dedication to traceability and authenticity. Each piece is backed by precise certification, and the company places strong emphasis on transparency — a value increasingly essential in today’s fine jewelry market. Whether working with independent designers, high jewelry maisons, or collectors, Filippo G&G offers both inspiration and reliability.
A Human Touch at the Heart of the Business
The booth reflected a refined yet personal touch — stones laid out like a painter’s palette, inviting both professionals and enthusiasts to imagine their next creation. Our encounter with Rachel Bresson added a human dimension to the brand’s expertise, highlighting the team’s passion for gemology and client relationships.
Filippo G&G is a name to remember for anyone seeking excellence, integrity, and color in every sense of the word.
Pamir Gems
The story of Pamir Gems: From the Mountains of Tajikistan to Bangkok Brilliance
We met with Jamshed of Pamir Gems, whose story blends deep family tradition with global vision. Founded in the late 1990s in Tajikistan, Pamir Gems began as a mining operation, extracting spinel and ruby from the Pamir mountains. “We were miners first,” Jamshed explained, “supplying rough stones directly to dealers without attending shows or building a brand.”
From Pamir to Bangkok
Everything changed in 2008, when the family opened their first international office in Bangkok—a strategic move that placed them in the heart of the gemstone world. “Bangkok is the center of gem processing” Jamshed said. “Most stones pass through here before reaching other markets. Cutting, polishing, and jewelry-making all happen here.”
This move marked a shift from mining to curation and craftsmanship. The company began sourcing a wider range of stones beyond their native spinels, gradually building expertise in color evaluation, cutting standards, and global market preferences.
Expanding the Collection
Today, Pamir Gems works with a carefully curated selection of stones, including garnets, tourmalines, and chrysoberyl, while still spotlighting their signature spinel offerings. Their booth at GemGenève featured custom-cut layouts and standout specimens, including a 24.17-carat red spinel from Tanzania, considered one of their flagship stones. Extracted from a rare production era (2008–2010), this gem drew attention for its vivid red color, despite minor inclusions. “If it were flawless,” Jamshed noted, “its price would be three times higher.”
Another highlight was a chrysoberyl—a stone Jamshed described as underrated, yet exceptional in both brilliance and hardness (8.5 on the Mohs scale). “It outshines many better-known gems,” he said.
Mastering the Cut
Pamir Gems places special emphasis on cutting techniques, inspired by the old Russian school of diamond craftsmanship. Their cutters, trained in Belarus, apply this precision to colored stones, resulting in exceptional symmetry, clarity, and brilliance.
“We sort and recut many stones to get the perfect result,” Jamshed said. “The way a stone is cut changes how it interacts with light. It’s what draws buyers in.”
Passion Over Profit
Although the company dabbled in jewelry-making during the Covid lockdowns—transforming unused stones into gold-set pieces—they remain focused on gems. “Jewelry is a different business,” Jamshed explained. “We enjoy working with stones—that’s where the excitement is.”
When asked about pricing, Jamshed underscored how subjective and fluid the gem market can be. “Prices aren’t fixed. It depends on rarity, beauty, and buyer perception. You might buy for one price and sell for three times more—or less—depending on timing and demand.”
At Pamir Gems, it’s not about inflating value or one-time deals. “We want our clients to come back,” he said. “That’s why we work with honesty and precision.”
Pamir Gems stands as a unique blend of Central Asian heritage and global craftsmanship, committed to bringing rare stones to market with passion, patience, and integrity. From the mines of Tajikistan to the cutting floors of Bangkok, theirs is a story carved in color, light, and tradition.
RMC Gems Limited
The Hidden Giants of Gemstone Rarity
When we visited RMC Gems Limited, we quickly understood we were speaking with one of the industry’s quiet powerhouses. With more than 35 years of experience, RMC has evolved from a regional gem supplier into a truly global player—operating offices across Asia and the Americas, with a base in Hong Kong and extensive networks in Bangkok and the US. What sets them apart? A fully integrated operation, handling everything from sourcing to manufacturing and marketing in-house. This vertical structure ensures control over both quality and availability—a rare feat in today’s gemstone world.
Paraíba Tourmaline: A Jewel at the Edge of Extinction
The center of our conversation—and of their stunning display—was a collection of Paraíba tourmalines from Mozambique. “What you see here, you won’t see anywhere else,” they told us. These stones, glowing with electric blues and greens, are not only beautiful—they are exceptionally rare. According to the team: “If there are 100 diamonds in the market, there may be only one Paraíba.”
The reason? The mines in Mozambique have been nearly exhausted. “There’s almost no more mining happening,” they explained. “Very few stones still come out, and it’s not profitable anymore.” This makes every existing stone in circulation not only more valuable but historically significant.
For RMC, holding such a large and high-quality stock is a strategic advantage. “Many companies offer Paraíba, but we have one of the strongest inventories in the market,” they shared with quiet confidence.
Why Paraíba Is in Such Demand
We asked what fuels the high demand for this gem—its color or its rarity? “Both,” came the immediate answer. The vivid hues are unmatched by any other stone, and its rarity makes it a natural fit for the world’s top jewelry houses. “All the brands want it,” they added, confirming its growing prominence in high jewelry collections across the globe.
Wholesale-Only, But Global in Scope
Unlike many exhibitors, RMC does not cater to the retail market. Their clients are strictly professionals—jewelry designers, luxury houses, and wholesalers. “No retail,” they stated. “Only business-to-business.” Their participation in global trade shows—in Hong Kong, Bangkok, the US, and now Geneva—reflects their commitment to staying visible and relevant among elite industry players.
GemGenève: A Platform for Rarity and Relationships
Exhibiting at GemGenève gave RMC the chance to showcase their rarest stones to a discerning European clientele. “We show the stones, and if a client is interested, we build the relationship step by step,” they said. It’s a long-term approach that mirrors the patience required to find and cut stones of this calibre.
Final Reflections
Our encounter with RMC Gems Limited wasn’t just about admiring gems—it was about witnessing the strategic foresight of a company that has quietly positioned itself as a vital supplier of some of the world’s rarest and most sought-after stones. Their Paraíba tourmalines are more than beautiful—they’re historical markers of a vanishing geological wonder, and RMC holds them like a precious responsibility.
Bojem
A Joyful Debut on the International Stage
One uplifting and vibrant moment of our GemGenève 2025 journey was our visit to Bojem, a contemporary Chinese jewelry house making its highly anticipated debut at the fair.
The Vision of Zhao Yi (Joyee)
Founded and led by designer Zhao Yi (Joyee), Bojem celebrates vibrant and colorful jewelry, where precious and semi-precious stones take center stage in bold, joyful compositions. The booth radiated optimism — a perfect reflection of the brand’s ethos: celebrating individuality, emotion, and beauty through color.
International Recognition and Parisian Flair
Since its founding, Bojem has carved out a distinct voice in the world of fine jewelry. The brand has garnered international attention, particularly in Paris, where it was awarded Best Original Jewellery Design at Fashion Week in 2017. Joyee’s creative vision has since led to several notable collaborations with French designers, infusing Bojem’s pieces with a cosmopolitan flair that balances Eastern sensibility with Western elegance.
A Symphony of Color and Emotion
At GemGenève, Bojem unveiled pieces that felt both playful and sophisticated — from rainbow eternity bands to pastel-hued cocktail rings, where spinels, sapphires, garnets, and tourmalines danced in whimsical harmony. Each design was not only a visual delight but also carried emotional symbolism, with stones carefully chosen for their color and energy.
A Welcome Addition to GemGenève’s Global Spirit
Bojem’s debut at the fair marks an exciting moment for the brand’s global journey. Their presence is a testament to GemGenève’s commitment to showcasing exceptional talent from around the world — and a clear reminder that jewelry, when created with heart and imagination, transcends borders and traditions.
Gübelin Gem Labs
Gübelin Gem Lab: One of the world’s most trusted names in gemological certification
While much of GemGenève dazzles with vibrant displays and artisanal brilliance, our visit to the Gübelin Gem Lab offered a quieter, more introspective view into the scientific backbone of the jewelry world. In an industry where authenticity, origin, and treatment can dramatically affect a gemstone’s value, laboratories like Gübelin play an essential role.
Renowned globally for its expertise in colored gemstone analysis, Gübelin certifies not only loose gems but also finished jewelry—providing independent verification that underpins trust across the supply chain. Here, precision meets provenance, and science meets storytelling. More than just a testing facility, the Gübelin Gem Lab is a respected authority where gemological excellence and educational commitment converge, helping to uphold the standards the industry relies on.
Gübelin Gem Lab & Academy
We had the pleasure of meeting Annekathrin Pekarek from the Gübelin team, who shared insights into the lab’s multi-faceted mission and its latest initiatives.
Gübelin Gem Lab is dedicated to protecting the integrity and value of gemstones through science. Every gemstone is analyzed using advanced techniques—such as spectroscopy, microscopy, and chemical fingerprinting—to determine its natural origin and any treatments it may have undergone. Their work enables buyers and sellers to make informed decisions based on traceable and transparent data.
But Gübelin is more than a laboratory. It is also an educational institution through the Gübelin Academy, which offers internationally recognized training programs. The Academy’s courses, designed for professionals and enthusiasts, explore gem classification, value factors, and market trends—bridging technical expertise with commercial understanding.
Provenance Proof Blockchain Initiative
Gübelin is also shaping the future of the industry through its Provenance Proof initiative—a groundbreaking program that brings blockchain technology and physical tracers into the gemstone supply chain. This allows for full transparency from mine to market, promoting ethical sourcing and traceability on an unprecedented level.
Tradition and innovation in the service of gemological truth
In essence, Gübelin blends tradition and innovation, science and emotion, to support a more ethical, transparent, and informed gemstone industry. Their work exemplifies Swiss precision, global leadership, and a deep respect for the beauty and story behind every gem.
HEAD - Haute Ecole d'Art et Design
HEAD: Reimagining Legend Through Contemporary Jewelry
The exhibition by HEAD – Genève (Haute école d’art et de design), brought a bold and refreshing perspective to contemporary jewelry design. This ongoing collaboration between one of Europe’s leading art and design institutions and the international fair continues to spotlight emerging talent and push the boundaries of creative expression.
A Competition Rooted in Storytelling
For the fifth consecutive year, GemGenève hosted a student competition and exhibition in partnership with HEAD – Genève, featuring fifteen students from the school’s Bachelor and Master programs in Jewellery and Accessory Design. The 2025 edition centered on the legendary Celtic tale of Tristan and Iseult, inviting students to explore its themes—love, fate, secrecy, sacrifice—through symbolic, poetic, and often abstract interpretations.
Rather than re-telling the myth, the students used it as a launchpad for experimentation and emotional exploration. The result was a powerful display of narrative jewelry that challenged conventions and affirmed the role of storytelling in design. This initiative not only celebrates imagination and craftsmanship but also offers young creators a rare opportunity to engage directly with the professional world.
From Concept to Creation
The pieces presented at the exhibition were as diverse as they were expressive—ranging from delicate forms to sculptural statements, often blurring the lines between adornment, art object, and narrative device. Traditional materials met unconventional elements, reflecting the HEAD ethos of research-driven creativity and fearless experimentation. Every detail carried intention, revealing how each student translated myth into matter with unique artistic language.
Audience Engagement and Recognition
More than a showcase, the exhibition also invited public participation. Visitors were encouraged to vote for their favorite piece, and the winner of the Coup de cœur du public (Public Choice Award) was revealed in a special ceremony held on Sunday, May 11th. This year’s recipient was Rose Perle Dubas, honored for her striking and emotionally resonant work titled “Arête l’inconscience.” Her piece stood out for its conceptual depth and raw intensity, offering a deeply personal reading of the Tristan and Iseult legend.
A Platform for the Next Generation
HEAD – Genève’s presence at the fair once again underscored GemGenève’s commitment to fostering emerging voices in the jewelry world. By bridging academia and industry, this partnership nurtures not only technical skill but also critical thinking, innovation, and emotional resonance. As the line between fine art and fine jewelry continues to blur, initiatives like this ensure that the next generation enters the field with vision, confidence, and a strong foundation.
Through this contest, we were reminded that the future of jewelry lies not only in craftsmanship but in the courage to tell new stories through timeless forms.
GGTL Laboratories
GGTL Laboratories Switzerland: A Scientific Beacon
Our visit to the GGTL Laboratories Switzerland booth at GemGenève 2025 offered far more than a glimpse into the technical side of gemology—it was an invitation into a world where scientific precision meets the emotional power of precious stones. In an industry that often celebrates sparkle and beauty, GGTL stands as a quiet yet formidable force, upholding integrity, truth, and transparency behind every gem.
Pioneers in Gemological Research and Certification
Founded in 1996, GGTL Laboratories Switzerland was born from a vision to raise the standards of gemological science. Co-directed by the internationally respected Dr. Thomas Hainschwang, GGTL has grown into a benchmark institution, renowned for its leadership in both diamond and colored gemstone analysis. Whether it’s a rare spinel, a classic ruby, or a cutting-edge lab-grown diamond, GGTL’s certification and research processes are trusted across the globe by dealers, designers, collectors, and auction houses alike.
The laboratory’s expertise encompasses the identification, authentication, and classification of gemstones—issuing comprehensive reports that verify origin, treatments, and identity. These documents are more than just certificates; they are stories of origin and proof of trust in a market where every detail matters.
Technology That Reveals the Unseen
One of the most impressive aspects of GGTL’s work is its use of advanced analytical tools. The team shared with us to the technologies that underpin their daily investigations: spectroscopy, photoluminescence, high-resolution imaging, and microscopic analysis, among others. These tools do not just verify authenticity—they help uncover the internal world of each stone, from growth structures to treatment indicators.
With each gemstone, GGTL scientists unravel layers of history, geography, and formation. This forensic-level detail transforms the way a gem is valued—not just monetarily, but in terms of its geological and cultural significance.
A Dual Commitment: Innovation and Service
GGTL’s reputation is built not only on technical expertise, but also on its commitment to innovation and service. The lab works closely with academic institutions, researchers, and equipment manufacturers to remain at the forefront of gemological development. It has even developed bespoke instruments to address new challenges in gemstone identification, particularly as the market sees a growing influx of synthetic and treated stones.
But what truly distinguishes GGTL is its personalized approach. Whether serving an independent jewelry artist or a major luxury house, GGTL tailors its services to the unique context of each client—providing clarity in a field where doubt can carry great risk.
A Strategic Network Across Europe
With operations in Geneva (Switzerland), Balzers (Liechtenstein), and Antwerp (Belgium), GGTL is strategically positioned at the crossroads of the international gemstone trade. Its Antwerp office, located in the heart of the world’s diamond capital, connects GGTL directly with the pulse of the global market. Meanwhile, its Swiss and Liechtenstein laboratories serve as centers of excellence for high-end analysis and research.
This tri-national footprint allows the laboratory to operate with exceptional consistency, speed, and responsiveness—qualities that are increasingly valued in today’s fast-paced luxury and gemstone markets.
The Quiet Authority Behind Every Stone
In a world where sparkle can sometimes overshadow substance, GGTL reminds us of the power of truth. Its mission goes beyond verification; it is about safeguarding trust in a global industry built on authenticity, rarity, and human connection. As we left their booth at GemGenève, one thing was clear: without institutions like GGTL, the beauty of gemstones would lose its grounding. It is this scientific foundation that enables the magic of jewelry to truly shine.
