A magical journey through GemGenève 2025, Part 1.
Stepping into GemGenève 2025 felt like crossing the threshold into a hidden world—one glittering with wonder, history, and artistry. The air shimmered with the light of countless gems, each with its own story and soul. From vivid tourmalines to velvety sapphires, from rare spinels to timeless diamonds, the fair revealed the beauty of the earth in its purest form.
One of the most inspiring aspects of the visit was how the exhibition encouraged a fresh perspective on the traditional hierarchy of gemstones. While diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and emeralds have long been labeled as precious, and others deemed semi-precious GemGenève celebrated the extraordinary beauty and rarity found across the full spectrum of gems—reminding us that such distinctions can often overlook the true brilliance of nature’s treasures.
Take, for instance, a radiant yellow diamond on display, weighing over 10 carats and priced well into the seven figures—its brilliance commanding admiration and awe. Not very far away, a mesmerizing Paraíba tourmaline—technically “semi-precious”—glowed with electric neon blues and greens, rarer in nature than many precious stones and priced at over $200,000 per carat. Beauty, it seems, defies labels.
At its core, GemGenève is a professional trade show. The vast majority of exhibitors come with a clear purpose: to trade, sell, and source exceptional stones. Whether it’s a dealer offering rare gems to collectors and maisons, or a jeweler showcasing finished creations to potential buyers, business is very much at the heart of the fair. Deals are discussed, loupe in hand, and relationships forged around shared passion and trust.
The diversity of the booths added even more richness to the experience. Some exhibitors focused exclusively on loose stones—raw, faceted, or carved—offering a kaleidoscope of colors and qualities for gem hunters, designers, and ateliers. Others unveiled fully realized pieces of jewelry, marrying the marvels of nature with refined craftsmanship.
A true highlight of the fair was the vibrant presence of visionary designers. From heritage maisons celebrated for their timeless elegance to daring independents redefining the language of jewelry, each brought a unique and inspiring artistic voice.
Maison Tabbah
Inside Maison Tabbah’s Artistic World: A Legacy of Elegance
At this year’s GemGenève, one of the most memorable encounters was with Maison Tabbah, a storied high jewelry house renowned for its exquisite craftsmanship and multi-generational heritage. Nestled within the refined atmosphere of the fair, Tabbah’s vitrine at Horovitz and Totah’s showcased vibrant high jewelry pieces, intricate detailing, and a quiet confidence—an embodiment of the brand’s DNA. We had the pleasure of being welcomed by Annalisa Tabbah, a sixth-generation member of the family and certified gemologist, who graciously shared both her passion and the philosophy behind the maison.
From Beirut to the World: Handcrafted Excellence
With roots tracing back to Beirut, Tabbah stands as one of the oldest family-run jewelry houses still active today. As Annalisa explained, every piece is crafted in-house, from goldsmithing to stone recutting, ensuring unparalleled quality and attention to detail. “Everything is done by hand,” she told us, pointing to the back of a delicate floral bracelet. “You can see it—even from the reverse side, the craftsmanship is visible.”
Tabbah’s atelier uses a proprietary blend of alloys that gives its creations their distinctive color and quality. This precise metal mix is part of the brand’s hallmark. The atelier also handles the meticulous sourcing of diamonds and colored gemstones from trusted international markets. “We never compromise on quality,” Annalisa emphasized. “Top-top quality only.”
A Symphony of Stones and Stories
Among the many pieces on display, one bracelet stood out for its stunning combination of diamonds, mother-of-pearl, emeralds, sapphires, rubies, and onyx. Annalisa took the time to guide us through the design, pointing out how nacre (mother-of-pearl) was delicately inlaid between floral motifs, adding a soft, iridescent elegance to the overall composition. “It’s very Art Deco,” she noted, “but also smooth to wear, very comfortable on the skin.”
Another highlight was the Emerald Drop, a versatile sautoir design adorned with diamonds, and paired with a black jade tube and a striking 19.10ct emerald drop. Its modular design allows the wearer to detach the emerald, offering a customizable way to wear the piece—a refined expression of modern luxury and thoughtful craftsmanship.
The pièce de résistance, however, was a heart-shaped rose gold and aquamarine necklace featuring an invisible closure mechanism hidden in a golden heart motif. This level of intricate innovation—fused with romance and symbolism—captures what Tabbah does best: blending emotion, legacy, and design into timeless jewelry.
Women, Craft, and Heritage
Annalisa’s role as a gemologist bridges the creative vision of her father, Nagib Tabbah, who designs many of the brand’s iconic collections, and her grandfather, Nabil Tabbah, a legendary figure in the world of precious gemstones. Together, the three generations form a living dialogue between tradition, innovation, and expertise. “They tell me what they need, and I go find it,” Annalisa shared with a smile. Whether sourcing morganite from Africa or searching for rare cuts in Antwerp, her contribution is essential to maintaining the brand’s high standards.
The clientele, Annalisa shared, is global and sophisticated, with a notable affinity among Middle Eastern women who deeply appreciate the craftsmanship and design language of Tabbah. “These are unique pieces,” she told us. “Each one has a story, and each one finds the right person.”
A Quiet Force in High Jewelry
Unlike some maisons who rely heavily on visibility, Tabbah exudes a quiet confidence. “We don’t speak much,” Annalisa admitted, “but we let the pieces talk.” And talk they did—each jewel not only radiant in beauty but resonant with legacy.
As our visit came to a close, it was clear that Tabbah is more than a jewelry house—it is a family, a history, and above all, a philosophy of enduring elegance passed down through generations. We thank Annalisa for her time and generosity and look forward to shining a spotlight on their creations through this article.
Miranda Group & Co.
A Family-Run Legacy Rooted in Color Gemstones
At GemGenève 2025, Miranda Group & Co. offered a vibrant contrast to the world of traditional high jewelry. Founded over 15 years ago and based in Hong Kong, this family-run business has made its mark through a deep dedication to colored gemstones—commonly referred to as “semi-precious,” though their quality and rarity often rival those of so-called “precious” stones. We were warmly welcomed by the team, whose passion and expertise brought each gem to life, turning our visit into a moment of genuine connection and discovery.
Masters of Color, Craft, and Cut
Miranda Group specializes in aquamarine, rubellite, morganite, and the exceptional Paraiba tourmaline—renowned for its electric hues and scarcity. Their supply chain is partially integrated, with several stones sourced from their own mines. All gemstones are cut in-house at their Shenzhen workshop, where production has evolved over the past decade from mass output to artisanal, precision cutting. Each stone is individually assessed and cut to maximize its brilliance, clarity, and saturation.
Their aquamarines, particularly those from the Santa Maria mine in Brazil, stood out for their depth of color and purity. Similarly, their selection of Paraiba tourmalines was among the most impressive we encountered at the show, both in terms of quality and storytelling.
Beyond Definitions: A Philosophy of True Value
At Miranda Group, traditional classifications are subtly but decisively redefined. “How can an emerald priced at $50,000 per carat be considered ‘precious,’ while a Paraiba tourmaline valued at $200,000 per carat is not?. For them, true value lies not in outdated labels, but in rarity, intensity, and the craftsmanship that reveals a stone’s full beauty. Their approach invites the industry to embrace a more inclusive and contemporary appreciation of colored gemstones—one that reflects both market realities and artistic excellence.
Occasional Jewelry, Always Tailored
While their core business remains in loose stones, Miranda Group occasionally creates bespoke jewelry for clients. They admitted it’s not their primary line of work, but when a client forms a strong bond with a gem, they’re more than willing to transform it into a unique piece. These creations are designed with trusted partners in Hong Kong’s artisanal workshops and cater to collectors who appreciate both the stone and the story it tells.
An International Presence with a Collector’s Eye
Miranda Group exhibits regularly in Hong Kong, the U.S., Dubai, and Europe, with GemGenève being a key meeting point for international collectors and industry professionals. They remain discreet in their marketing—focusing on exhibitions and word-of-mouth—but maintain a growing presence on social media, especially Instagram, where their stones speak for themselves.
An Inspiring Encounter
Our visit to the Miranda Group & Co. stand at GemGenève 2025 was a true highlight. Their dedication to the art of gemstone cutting, their thoughtful philosophy, and the natural beauty of their stones left a lasting impression. Whether you’re a designer, collector, or simply a lover of rare gems, their creations are an invitation to rediscover the value of color, craftsmanship, and authenticity.
Scarselli Diamonds
A Legacy of Colored Brilliance
At GemGenève 2025, we had the pleasure of visiting the prestigious booth of Scarselli Diamonds, where we were warmly welcomed by Davide Scarselli. Davide personally introduced us to the world of his family’s storied company, guiding us through a legacy that has defined excellence in colored diamonds for nearly seventy years.
The highlight of the visit was the breathtaking Scarselli 40-carat Fancy Intense Yellow Diamond Engagement Ring. Set in a delicate yet bold design that emphasizes the sheer brilliance of the stone, the piece radiated timeless elegance. It was a rare opportunity to witness a gemstone of this caliber—exceptionally pure, intense in color, and meticulously cut to maximize its fire and presence.
Italian Roots, Global Prestige
Founded in Florence in 1957, Scarselli Diamonds has since grown into a multinational leader in the rare colored diamond market. In 1978, the company moved its operations to New York City, where it still maintains its headquarters today. With additional offices in Hong Kong, Shanghai, and Shenzhen, the Scarselli name resonates across continents, serving collectors and connoisseurs of exceptional gems.
Pioneers in Colored Diamonds
Scarselli specializes in natural colored diamonds—with an emphasis on yellow, pink, red, and blue hues—alongside traditional colorless diamonds and exquisite emeralds, sapphires, and rubies. Their influence extends beyond retail, with their jewels recognized in the world of art and culture. Scarselli Diamonds was among the first diamond houses to have a collection accepted into a museum, marking a symbolic crossover between fine jewelry and artistic heritage.
The Aurora Green Legacy
One of Scarselli’s most renowned achievements was owning the Aurora Green Diamond, the largest vivid green diamond ever sold at auction. This historic stone fetched $16.8 million at Christie’s in May 2016, breaking records at $3.3 million per carat. It was acquired by Chow Tai Fook, a leading Chinese jewelry house, further cementing Scarselli’s standing at the pinnacle of gem artistry.
A Meeting to Remember
Our conversation with Davide Scarselli was also a window into a family’s unwavering passion for excellence. At Scarselli, every gem tells a story—and through their globally admired collections, those stories continue to shine with exceptional brilliance.
Village des Designers – Armenian Designers, AJA
Village des Designers – Armenian Designers, AJA
At the heart of the Village des Designers, the Armenian Jewelers Association (AJA) gathered a remarkable selection of designers who reflect the strength, symbolism, and soul of Armenian craftsmanship. Led by President Ivette Nersesyan-Stephanopoulos, the AJA brought together extraordinary Armenian talents, winners of the AJA Design Competition, and the diaspora to present a compelling vision of jewelry as cultural expression.
Armen Shahinyan – Symbolism and Sculptural Innovation at UHI Jewelry
Armen Shahinyan, brought a bold and deeply expressive perspective to the Armenian Designers pavilion. Known for blending ancient symbolism with modern design, his pieces convey powerful narratives rooted in Armenian culture. One of the standout creations he presented was the “Mermaid” ear accessory—a daring and imaginative piece that wraps around the ear and extends elegantly onto the head. Crafted from titanium and adorned with pearls, the “Mermaid” is inspired by the mystique of the ocean and the mythical mermaid figure. The design is lightweight yet structurally ambitious, marrying sculptural form with delicate materials. The result is a wearable artwork that challenges conventional jewelry boundaries and showcases Shahinyan’s innovative spirit.
Vasken Melikian – From Champion Cyclist to Goldsmith Visionary
Vasken Melikian of Armenian and Lebanese origin, is a naturalized American whose life path spans continents and disciplines. Once a cycling champion, Vasken now channels his discipline, movement, and competitive spirit into his jewelry and artistic creations. His showcase included two standout objects:
The “Gold Bicycle”, meticulously crafted in 18Kt yellow gold, is a tribute to his athletic past. It captures the essence of motion, balance, and precision, standing as both a technical achievement and an emotional symbol of his life journey.
Alongside it, he unveiled the “Hookah” Object, a luxurious miniature interpretation of the traditional shisha—known as “hookah” in the US—transformed into an object of cultural fusion and aesthetic boldness. Also made from 18Kt yellow gold, the piece is set with sapphires representing the charcoal and diamonds encircling the rim—a striking fusion of ornamental detail and cultural reference.
Mike Saatji – Sculptural Mastery and Avant-Garde Elegance
Although Mike Saatji was not present in person at GemGenève 2025, a colleague from the Armenian Jewelers Association (AJA) proudly showcased one of his latest creations, offering a glimpse into the designer’s extraordinary world. The featured piece, the “Petali Bracelet”, exemplifies his signature blend of innovation and refinement. Crafted over the course of seven months, this one-of-a-kind bangle combines 18k SMO gold, titanium floral elements, and white diamonds, all seamlessly integrated with tension chains that add a contemporary, technical flair. The bracelet strikes a delicate balance between strength and elegance, with its sculptural form evoking both fragility and bold sophistication.
Karen Hovhannisyan – Intricate Heritage from Fakejian Jewelry
Karen Hovhannisyan, lead designer at Fakejian Jewelry in Armenia, brought a poetic and introspective dimension to the Armenian Designers pavilion. His creations merge Armenian craftsmanship with symbolic storytelling, resulting in jewelry that resonates on both aesthetic and emotional levels.His standout piece was the “Ostrich Ring”, a thoughtful design that encourages reflection and self-awareness. Crafted in 14K gold, the ring features pavé-set diamonds of varying sizes trailing along the tail, a vivid ruby at the center, and black diamonds for the eyes, adding expressive contrast and depth. More than just an elegant accessory, the Ostrich Ring serves as a metaphor: to truly recognize our value, we sometimes need to step back and see ourselves from a new perspective. It’s a piece that speaks to personal growth, resilience, and the quiet power of introspection—hallmarks of Hovhannisyan’s meaningful approach to jewelry design.
Vladimir Manukyan – Opulence and Drama from Yerevan
Founder of the Vladimir Manukyan Jewelry House in Yerevan, Vladimir is known for his dramatic and opulent creations that blend historical references with luxurious craftsmanship. His presence at the Armenian Designers pavilion added a sense of grandeur and reverence, showcasing jewelry that feels both majestic and meaningful.
One of his most compelling pieces is the “Geghard-Inspired Bracelet”, a design that draws from the powerful legacy of the Geghard Spear, a sacred Christian relic preserved at the Mother See of Holy Etchmiadzin in Armenia. Crafted in gold, the bracelet transforms this ancient symbol of faith into a wearable expression of spiritual strength and national pride. Manukyan reimagines the spear’s martial essence with elegance and subtlety, creating a piece that honors Armenian heritage while exemplifying refined contemporary craftsmanship. It stands as both a tribute and a statement—rich in symbolism, rooted in tradition, and elevated through design.
A Living Bridge Between Generations and Borders
The Armenian Designers pavilion was more than an exhibition—it was a celebration of identity, legacy, and imagination. Whether through finely detailed rings, symbolic sculptures, or bold artistic statements, each creator offered a glimpse into Armenia’s enduring contribution to the world of jewelry design.
Laura Inghirami x GemGenève
A Visionary Collaboration
Among the most captivating and forward-thinking exhibitions of GemGenève’s ninth edition was the special project “Laura Inghirami x GemGenève”. Curated by Laura Inghirami — a Forbes Under 30 honouree and founder of Donna Jewel — this initiative spotlighted the fresh perspective and innovative spirit of a new generation of jewellery designers. Created in collaboration with two of Italy’s leading design institutions, the Galdus School of Milan and the TADS – Tarì Design School, the project brought together emerging talent under a shared vision.
Jewellery as a Reflection of Tomorrow’s Values
Under the title “Jewels from the Future,” students were invited to explore not only form and technique, but also the evolving values jewellery must embody in a changing world. Sustainability, identity, storytelling, and emotional resonance were central themes. The result was a collection of unique, visionary pieces that merge craftsmanship, ethics, and conceptual depth.
An Exhibition with Impact
What made this showcase stand out was not only the aesthetic quality of the creations, but the message behind them — that jewellery is, and must remain, an artistic and cultural expression. These bold and thoughtful designs demonstrated a maturity beyond the students’ years and a genuine passion for shaping the future of their craft.
Launching the Designers of Tomorrow
This debut felt more than promising; it was a launchpad. The works on display radiated potential, suggesting that among these students may be tomorrow’s leading voices in high-end jewellery — and future protagonists of the Geneva fair itself.
Jean Boghossian
Jean Boghossian: A Second Life of Precious Flame and Stone
One of the most moving encounters at GemGenève 2025 was with artist Jean Boghossian—an extraordinary figure whose creative journey bridges the worlds of high jewelry and contemporary art. Standing before his evocative works, we had the privilege of hearing directly from the artist about the personal and symbolic layers behind his exhibition.
“Second Life, Precious Stone, Precious Flame”
“I am really honored to be exhibiting at GEM Genève,” Jean told us, his passion evident. “I used to be a gem dealer and then a jeweler. Of course, I handed over the business to my brother and my sons and decided to become an artist.” With a deep-rooted connection to the Boghossian family’s jewelry legacy, Jean’s path took a bold turn as he immersed himself in art, studying for fourteen years at the Académie des Beaux-Arts and the Second Academy in Brussels.
His booth at GemGenève showcases this transformation through his exhibition titled “Second Life, Precious Stone, Precious Flame.”
“Second Life represents my life as an artist,” he explained. “Precious Flame reflects my passion for art. I also use fire with metal and ceramics, so flame is very important in my work.” Indeed, fire is not just a technique in Boghossian’s practice—it’s a central character. His signature “fire paintings” involve burning, scorching, and smoking surfaces to reveal raw beauty through controlled destruction.
Art and Stone in Dialogue
Jean’s works often integrate unused gemstones from his days as a jeweler—creating a poetic conversation between the precious materials of his past and the expressive forms of his present. “I try to use my stones that I didn’t use in the jewelry to create a dialogue with art and the precious stones,” he told us. This convergence is most clearly seen in a work titled “Precious Stone,” a mobile sculpture resembling an art gallery in motion, where translucent fragments echo both gemstone cuts and abstract landscapes.
From Ancient Scripts to Abstract Flame
Another standout piece, “Abstract Writing,” is a burnt canvas where smoke and pigments evoke ancient scripts. “It suggests writings that could have been found in Egyptian or Mesopotamian times,” he said. “It resembles an antique script that is burnt, allowing viewers to decide what they want to read and see.” The piece invites personal interpretation—layering history, memory, and imagination into its charred, poetic surface.
A Legacy Transformed
Jean Boghossian’s presence at GemGenève was more than just an exhibition—it was a living testament to reinvention. From his family’s legacy in fine jewelry to his deeply personal work with flame, pigment, and stone, he embodies a rare fusion of craftsmanship and artistic freedom. In a fair dedicated to the eternal brilliance of gems, his art introduced a more ephemeral, yet equally precious, kind of spark.
Visit to Gem & Jewel Book Collectors
At the heart of GemGenève’s vibrant showcase of color, craftsmanship, and creativity, we discovered a quieter treasure: the Gem & Jewel Book Collectors booth. This oasis of culture and history drew us in with its elegant display of rare publications, antique catalogues, and contemporary masterpieces in gemological literature.
We had the pleasure of meeting Herbert Horowitz and Christophe Dubois, two passionate custodians of this literary collection. Their booth is more than a retail corner—it’s a curated sanctuary for those who appreciate the deeper stories behind the world of gems and jewelry.
Books as Time Capsules
From out-of-print auction catalogues to richly illustrated treatises on royal collections, the selection reflects decades of dedication and expertise. Whether you’re a gemologist, designer, historian, or collector, each book offers a window into eras gone by and the evolution of jewelry artistry. Herbert and Christophe were generous with their insights, enthusiastically sharing the origins and significance of many volumes on display.
One particularly notable contribution is Herbert’s involvement in the re-edition of The Golden Fleece, a landmark work dedicated to the legendary jewel created for King Louis XV of France. This extraordinary piece, rich in symbolism and history, was recreated in detailed narrative and imagery—preserving the story of a masterpiece that has fascinated historians, jewelers, and royalty alike.
A Niche With Growing Appeal
The resurgence of interest in craftsmanship and connoisseurship has elevated the value of these books—not just as references, but as collector’s items in their own right. As Christophe noted, “Books are lasting—just like the gems themselves. They hold knowledge that doesn’t fade with trends.”
For those who seek to deepen their understanding of gemology or simply savor the aesthetic richness of historical jewel publications, a visit to Gem & Jewel Book Collectors is an inspiring detour into the intellectual heritage of the industry.
